The village of Port Charlotte
The Isle of Islay
Islay is a place of great beauty and peace. Never “developed” for tourism, visitors
come here to see a Hebridean island in its unspoiled state.
It is world-famous for bird-watching. From October to April, Islay is host to a large
proportion of the world populations of Greenland White-fronted and Barnacle Geese.
All year round, however, there is an amazing variety of birds to see, particularly
sea-birds, waders and raptors and the rare chough. Information can be obtained from
the RSPB Visitor Centre at Gruinart and the Islay Wildlife Information Centre in
Port Charlotte.
Islay is a whisky island. There are eight working distilleries, plus one on the neighbouring
island of Jura, and a maltings at Port Ellen. All of these run interesting tours.
Our nearest distillery, Bruichladdich Distillery, still uses its original Victorian
equipment. Bowmore Distillery is perhaps the oldest in Scotland, while Kilchoman
Distillery, which takes whisky-making back to its farm-based roots, only opened in
2005. The owners of Bruichladdich Distillery are starting work on re-opening Lochindaal
Distillery in Port Charlotte, which closed in 1929. This will return to its original
1829 name: the Port Charlotte Distillery.
Bowmore, the administrative centre of the island, with its famous Round Church (no
corners for the devil to hide in) at the top of its Georgian Main Street, contains
the island’s larger Co-op supermarket (the other is in Port Ellen) and a variety
of other shops, the Mactaggart Leisure Centre with its modern swimming Pool, sauna
and gym, and the Tourist Information Centre.
The Gaelic centre, Ionad Chaluim Chille Ile, which is associated with Sabhal Mòr
Ostaig on Skye, is just outside Bowmore, on the road to Bridgend.
Bowmore has two banks, the Bank of Scotland and the Royal Bank of Scotland, both
of which have cash-dispensers. (There is also a non-charging cash dispenser in the
Port Charlotte village shop, C. & S. Monks.) Islay Hospital is also sited in Bowmore
(in addition to doctors, Islay has a dentist, optician, physiotherapist and vet).
There are many historic and prehistoric sites on the Island, including Finlaggan,
the seat of the Lords of the Isles, Kildalton Chapel with its famous celtic cross,
Kilchiaran Chapel, claimed to be the first landfall of St. Columba when he came from
Ireland and before he moved on to Iona, and many long-ago deserted villages.
At Bridgend, eight miles from Port Charlotte, there is a woollen mill using traditional
equipment and manufacturing very high-quality tweed. In Islay House Square, a few
hundred yards outside Bridgend on the Port Askaig road (look for the CRAFT WORKSHOPS
signs) is a batik studio and gallery (we must declare an interest here: Liz is the
batik artist. She is also a very skilled picture-framer. So bring anything you want
framed with you and it will be ready for your return journey), the Islay Quilters
workshop and exhibition, Islay Ales Brewery, Billy Muir a joiner and cabinet-maker,
Sue Wood a maker of chocolate confectionery, Making-Away, which combines an art gallery
with seamstress work, Mark Unsworth, a photographer at Islay Studios, the Islay Family
History Society and Ma McKinnon's Marmalade. The Square, dating from around 1770,
has beautiful architecture and is well worth a visit.
There is a telecentre at the offices of our local newspaper, the Ileach, in Bowmore,
where you can use Pcs and check your email, etc.. There is also Web access at the
Port Mòr Centre, just outside Port Charlotte on the road to Portnahaven.
Considered by many to be the most attractive village on the Island, Port Charlotte
stands on the West shore of Lochindaal, the great sea-loch in the Southwest of Islay.
The Port Charlotte Hotel, the Lochindaal Hotel and the Croft Kitchen provide a wide
variety of good food. The hotels have friendly bars in which live music is regularly
performed. Please note that these are very popular eating places during the summer.
If you are relying on the Port Charlotte Hotel or Lochindaal Hotel for your evening
meal on the day you arrive, you must book a table well in advance of your journey.
There is a Spar general store, post office and filling station. DVDs can be hired
there. Mountain bikes can be hired. Islay is ideal for exploring by bike, the island
being about thirty miles long by twenty wide and the roads generally not being too
hilly (there are exceptions to this on the West Coast of the Rhinns, not far from
Port Charlotte, but the view is so stunning that you’d want to dismount and look
at it anyway!).
Opposite the Croft Kitchen is the award-winning Museum of Islay Life, which contains
exhibits and information relating to everything from the prehistoric to the 20th
century. If you are tracing your ancestors, contact the Islay Family History Society
in Islay House Square, Bridgend.
The view across Lochindaal to Laggan, the Oa and Northern Ireland is breath-taking,
and this is exactly what you see from the front window of the Cottage.
Port Charlotte, Isle of Islay, Argyll